Thursday, August 23, 2012

Magical Mystical Tour

We began our day in Safed, one of the holiest and prettiest cities situated in the mountains of the Holy Land (and that's saying a lot).  Safed is the birthplace of Jewish Mysticism (Kabbalah). The Rabbi credited with the Kabbalah and its spirituality was know as Ari, The Lion.  His synagogue is located here and is still active.



Above is the synagogue of Rabbi Yosef Cairo, the author of the Shulchan Aruch, the rule book of Jewish laws and minhagim   Above, our own spiritual leader, Rabbi Stecker  was explaining some concepts of the Kabalah and some of the Sephardic customs that were depicted in the synagogue's design.



Many of the residents of Safed, are transplanted Jews who have discovered their inner spirituality. There are Chabadniks, Lubavitch and just plain old Balei Tshuva.  Being caught up in the holiness of the city, Skyler and I were recruited to put on Tefillin this morning. I am proud to say that it was Skyler's initiative that got me to join in.



After a rafting trip down the Jordan River we embarked on a Jeep trip to the Golan Heights. Our guide had just returned from a one month reserve stint in a tank division nearby. We were informed of the strategic importance of this area as it pertains to military position and the valuable resources it contains and protects from its vantage point. It is now an area with flourishing plantings and cattle surrounded by natural beauty and remnants of its battle scarred history. We pulled up to some plum trees and ate our spoils of tour.

Our day encompassed spirituality, hiking, rafting and an up close look at a strategic military battleground.  Today was like many days rolled in to one. It was the Magical Mystical Tour equivalent of the miracle of Hannukah.  



-- Abe Kanfer

Girls Rule!


Today in Israel, girls ruled even more than we normally do. Everyone went rafting down the Jordan River, and Amanda, Barrett, Emily, my mom and I were in the same raft.  With our strong paddlers, everyone leaning in rhythm, and singing our fancy tunes, we were unstoppable. We were in sync with the river.  We lost sight of the rest of the crew because we were so far ahead, and finished first out of all the rafts.  Later, we went on a jumpy Jeep ride through the Golan Heights.  The girls were together and unstoppable again!  We were the first Jeep and we had so much fun, whether it was watching cows or singing songs! Go Girls!


-- Leah Klempner

Welcome Home

This morning, we walked along the narrow paths and steep stairways of Safed, the highest town in Israel, and one of the four holy cities of the Talmud (along with Jerusalem, Hebron, and Tiberias).  The ancient city is known for its Kabbalist synagogues (including Itzhak Luria's synagogue below)


Safed is also known for its Artists Quarter, where small shops display paintings and works by local and world-renowned artists.  It was here that we came upon a small store named YomTov.com.  Walking in, the owner/artist (flipping back his peyes) told us he was from Florida, and his wife was from Safed.  "One day, I decided to move to Israel," he told us, "and I met my wife here, also an artist.  My work is the 'trippier' stuff on this wall, and my wife has the more artistic works behind me.  That's how we got here - so where are you from?"  "Great Neck, NY," we replied.

And with that, he gave us a great big, warm smile and said, "Welcome Home!"

-- Mark Putter

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

The Flip Side to Mark's Peaceful Co-existence

It's disarming, to say the least, and without any pun intended, to visit a popular and beautiful attraction, only to exit the site a block away from a chain link fence, an armed guard, and a border that is completely closed.  Yet that is exactly what you'd find about 50 yards to the left of Rochelle and Jonah in the photo below.


What an incredible contrast: the cable car at Rosh Hanikra took us down to explore the natural grottos and experience the crashing Mediterranean waves against the caves. The street exit up top laid bare for us the bitter conflict still raging with Lebanon.


Thankfully, the contrast on this day leaned heavily toward adventure.  At Caesarea, we staged our own chariot races in the Hippodrome, and in the theater (not an amphitheater) also staged the next number for the Temple Israel Players (DVD release may come shortly).  We sloshed through the 2,000 year old underground water tunnels at Park Alona -- way more cooler in every way than any water park.  And from Mount Carmel, we took in the spectacular views of Haifa -- a city famous for the peaceful co-existence Mark writes about in his blog below below....



-- Ron Klempner

Ramadan, Partying, and Peaceful Co-Existence

On Tuesday night, our family ventured out along the shore toward Jaffa for dinner.  For some reason unknown to us at the time, the traffic in Tel Aviv at 7:15pm was as bad as any gridlocked NYC Time Square evening.  Our taxi driver took us away from the sea, circled around some of the downtown buildings, and left us off across the busy street, telling us it would be quicker for us to cross to the other side and walk 5 minutes through a parking lot to our restaurant.

As we ventured through the parking lot and along the sidewalk, the beach was filled with revellers, partying, and impromptu barbeque pits everywhere.  Small children were running half-naked along the sand, chased by women in burkas while the men cooked and kneeled on the ground praying.  Yet somehow, amidst all the chaos and the strewn-about cups and cans, there was an acceptance that all was as-expected, nothing out of the ordinary.

What we later found out was that Tuesday night was Eid el-Fitr, marking the end of Ramadan (the 30-day month of Muslim Fasting).  A two-to-three day festival was beginning, marked by wild celebrations in the street, cooking of lamb, and camping out.  What struck me the most was that in Tel Aviv, the Muslim community could celebrate alongside the Israeli community, without incident and without issue. 



Peaceful co-existence between Islam and Judaism in the heart of Tel Aviv - what is the world coming to?!?!

-- Mark Putter

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Here, There and Everywhere


Sometimes you travel thousands of miles only to find an experience you could have enjoyed from around your corner.  Other times, you travel thousands of miles only to find an experience that, well, you can only find thousands of miles away.  We experienced a little of both today.
For one thing, this is the first time I have ever blogged.  I’ve never before tweeted and I don’t Facebook, so this is my first active social media experience.  I didn’t need to fly all the way to Israel to join this revolution, but I did.
Also on the subject of finding something 6,000 miles away that you could have experienced at home, we found ourselves lunching in Jaffa next to a lovely American family.  The dad and I started to chat, and he told me he was from New Jersey.  I told him where I was from, and he mentioned that he had a brother who lives in Great Neck.  And just like that, we found ourselves in Israel with a family of Seidenbergs – not Marc, Carol and their kids from Temple Israel, but Marc's brother Keith, who provided us with our first great small world story of the trip.  Of all the places in the world, and all the cafes in Israel, at all times of the day, we were sitting having lunch in Jaffa next to the brother of our Temple Israel friend.  The picture is below – he looks just like his brother.

 
Thankfully, on several occasions, we were reminded today that there are some experiences that can only be enjoyed right here.  For example, as much as we try to comprehend the enormous struggle we endured to establish this state, it never quite hits home the way it did as when we visited the Ayalon Institute in Rehovot this morning.  To the normal eye in the 1940’s, Ayalon was just a kibbutz on a hill.  But staircases running underneath the laundry room and bakery took 46 covert workers to the one place that manufactured all the bullets used in the War for Independence.  We descended into the perfectly preserved underground factory, hidden even from the regular kibbutz workers, referred to as “giraffes” – they had a perfect view of everything happening above ground, but had no idea what was going on below their feet.  My son Jonah kept saying how incredible it was that over just a few years, 5 million bullets could be secretly manufactured one-by-one by 46 people -- 45 plus the one converted giraffe that had wandered into the laundry room to wash a diaper when it was accidentally left unlocked.
Speaking of Jonah, two final thoughts:
First, only here at the port of Jaffa could we stand at the spot where a different Jonah set sail for what was supposed to be Ninevah.  This sensation is truly unique.
And second, Jonah from Great Neck North High School was able to explain to me the concept of a League of Nations mandate, something he had recently learned in history class.  This helped me understand and appreciate the drama that was re-enacted for us at our afternoon visit to Independence Hall, the site of David Ben-Gurion’s monumental proclamation of the State of Israel in May 1948.  We sat in that very room as a recording played parts of Ben-Gurion’s speech, the sh’hechianu blessing delivered in a shaking voice by the rabbi present at the ceremony, and the orchestra’s actual rendition of Hatikvah.  This, for me, was the highlight of our first full day.  I’ve stood countless times for the playing of Hatikvah, but never like this.  For an experience like this, I really needed to travel the 6,000 miles.
Last, last thing:  Happy, Happy Anniversary to the Steckers, on behalf of all the Holy Trekkers.
-        -- Ron Klempner

Word of the Day

Stufficated. The day we arrived in Israel, we ate so much at dinner that I invented a new word Stufficated. It means you are so stuffed from eating that you can't breathe.

- Barrett Kanfer

Sababa! The Food of Tel Aviv

Today, we ate our way from the Port of Old Jaffa for lunch, to the open-air Carmel Market.  Below, some of us partake of some candy, some baklava and pastries, and don't foget all the falafel accoutrements!

Monday, August 20, 2012

The Whole Mishpocha

Just finished our first group dinner.  Great food. A wonderful opportunity to schmooze and get to know one another. The Mediterranean Sea in the background added some exotic  flavor to our meal.


Can't wait until the tour gets rolling.



First Night Musings

Looking out from my hotel room at the Tel Aviv Crown Plaza. I'm amazed at the distance my family and I have travelled in the past 48 hours (it really may have been only 24 hours but with the jet lag and israeli beer, the hours are starting to blur together).


In the song Rak Po sung by the Israeli hip-hop group Hadag Nahash there are lyrics about Israelis trying to live a life that is split between the world and the village (you can find the song, complete with translated lyrics on YouTube).  The merging of the two was evident from the moment we entered the international terminal at JFK. The first reaction one has as you approach the El Al counter is - where did all these Jews come from?  While physical accessories such as kippot and Tzitzit are noticeable just from the physical appearance and can highlight distance as much as kinship, there I something heartwarming to find out that you will be sharing your flight with the Rosh Edah (division leader) from your children's division at Camp Ramah and makes you realize why this trip will not be like all other trips.

It has been 31 years since my last visit to Israel and one memory from that excursion stands out - that of a shachreit minyan taking place as dawn breaks over the horizon. At age 13 I wasn't familiar enough to take part in the davening. But age and experience has given me the tools to now take my place in the prayer quorum. However life isn't as neat as rose colored memories. Instead of a window view of the majesty of a sunrise at 30,000 feet I found myself crammed in between the galley and the rest rooms as the flashlight app on my iPhone became the ner-Tamid for our 'pick-up' minyan.

While I could try to wax poetic about how Israel has grown and developed over the past three decades it was the people that made the most impact. As Great Neck residents we joke about how we live in a ghetto. But that reality pales in comparison from the moment you land in Ben Gurion airport. Hebrew is the lingua Franca. Not just in signs and announcements, but abbas and imas shouting at their yeladim and mishpocha greeting each other with hugs. Cab drivers, bus drivers and even the local bar tenders are all members of the tribe. Ten steps out onto the beach and you hear shouting and trash talking all done in Ivrit on the beach volleyball courts. And when you watch with one eye as local teenage boys attempt to make passes at the local teenage girls, one thinks the thought, "hmmm I wonder if there's a good shidduch to be made?" The reality is, that as sung in Rak Po, Israel is 'The Jewish Village' writ large.

-- Harold Citron

Arrival!

For some, the travel was uneventful, and even luxurious - for others, leaving the "unholy land" of the Delta JFK terminal at 2:30am was not as originally planned.  But by 5:00pm on Monday (Israel time), we were all checked into the Crown Plaza along the beautiful shores of the Mediterranean Sea, ready to begin our adventure (see the view of the sea from our balconies)!